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EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

Patented Dec. 8, 1885.

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EMBBOIDERING-MAGHINE. No. 331,953. Patented Dec. 8, 1885.

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3 t e e h S W e e h S 4 R E T E N B E u u a d 0 M o m EMBROIDERING MAGHINE.

No. 331,953. Patented 1300.8, 1885.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 4. J. J. EBNETER.

EMBR'OIDERING MACHINE. No. 331,953. Patented Dec. 8, 1835.

UNITED STATES PATENT ruins.

JOHN JACOB EBNE'TER, OF ST. GALL, ST. GALL, SWVITZERLAND.

EMBROlDERlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 331,953, dated December 8, 1885.

Application filed September 30, 1884. Serial No.144,332. (No model.) Patented in England July 18, 1884, No. 10,307; in Belgium July 31, 1884, No. 65,801; in Italy August 13, 1884, XXXIV, 105; in AnstriaHnngary October 8, 1884, No. 25,877 and No. 4,577; in France December 3, 1884, No. 150,810, and in Germany March 27, 1885, No. 30,931.

needles, besides performing the ordinary duty ascribed to such machines.

.The advantages of my improvements are chiefly that fabrics can be embroidered with very different kinds of stitches without being removed to another machine, thus facilitating the work, while the quality of the embroidery is also greatly improved. In order to attain this object I provide one of the two carriages bearing the pinchers in a handembroidering machine with a special row of eye-pointed needles, which are brought to action whenever the embroidery has to be done with the continuous thread. These special needles correspond to a set of shuttles on the other side of. the fabric, put to work or brought out of way simultaneously with the former. Whenever the eye-pointed needles and shuttles are set to work, the to-and-fro motion of the said carriage is modified, the way being shortened while the other carriage is stopped entirely, having no participation in this quality of work.

The mechanism for carrying my invention into effect is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure I is a front view showing the general form of a machine exhibiting my improvements. Fig. II is a left-side elevation of the machine on alarger scale. Fig. III is a front View of the right part of the machine on same scale as Fig. II, some parts which are shown in other figures being removed to make the figure clearer. Fig. IV is a vertical sectionof a part of the machine parallel to the side elevation and in larger scale. Fig. V represents a plan view of a portion of the fiat rail supporting the rail carrying the shuttles and the shuttle-driver connected therewith.

Similar letters refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

In the drawings, the framing of the machine is shown at a a. i As in a Heilmann machine, two carriages, b and b in Fig. II, which are movable forward and backward by endless belts r r, carry, by means of arms B B, four bars, 0' c c c, which bear the pinchers P 1?, (see Fig. IV,) the latter being opened and closed by eccentric rods (Z d, for taking hold of the usual double pointed needles alternatively on each other side of the fabric F F which is placed in the screen or frame f and stretched and wound around rollers e e. The patterncard D, which governs the attendant in moving the pantograph G G, and the latter are shown only in Fig. I. In other figures these parts have been omitted in order not to crowd the drawings, being features well known to all interested in the art of embroidering. The usual devices for perforating the fabric and festooningand other accessories are also not shown for same reason, and because they can be applied to the machine exhibiting my improvements without interfering with the latter in any way.

All the above-mentioned parts of the machine belong to the common hand embroidering or Heilmann machine. They may thus be modified in any known manner, and receive their motion by the means employed heretofore on such machines. The mechanism for imparting motion to the carriages b and?) when the latter are used in the common way is thus not shown in the drawings, and will not be described, being the same as used in any embroidering-machine built on the Heilmann principle.

It should be remarked that the bars 0 c on Fig. II, bearing the pinchers, are alike to the bars c 0 forming thus two sets of devices for performing the similar work of embroidering on two separate pieces of fabric, F F According to this arrangement the corresponding parts pertaining specially to my improve- 4 ments, which are now to be specified, are also.

shown in two applications onFig. II, but in one on Fig. IV.

The devices described in the following matter concern specially the parts of the em broidering-machine which are used when the stitches are made with eye-pointed needles and shuttles using a continuous thread.

To the bar 0 on carriage 2) another bar, parallel to the former, is attachedjat each'end by means of an arm, movable at its fulcrum, being connected with apin, to and supported by bracket made fast to bar 0, as shown in Fig. IV. Other similar arms may be adapted at suitable distances on bar g in order to hold it more rigid. The bar 9 is provided with a row of eye-pointed I166dl6S,"i, fixed to the former, thus remaining always on the same side of the fabric. The arms 9' being movable, the bar g, with needles 2', can be brought in position for the work with continuous thread or put out of way when the em.- broidering is done by double-pointed needles. The removing of bar 9 is done by swinging it up and back, the arm 9 turning. on its fulcrum. Whenever this operation is performed, the carriage b is moved away from the fab ricat suitable distance, otherwise the'bar 9 would interfere with the arms 2 of bar 2, to be described later in my specification.

The continuous thread for the eye-pointed needlesis wound on bobbin h, which is provided with the usual accessoriesfor instance, with a flat spring, k, acting at certain intervals-as a tension on the bobbin. Spring is fixed to rocking arm land pressed against the bobbin or released by rod Z and lever Z, the latter being acted upon by a cam-wheel, 1 set onmain shaft u. (See Figs. II, III, IV.) From the bobbin the continuous thread passes around rods t and t and the eccentric rods d to the corresponding eye-pointed needles. This thread is stretched or loosened by motion of the arms 26 and t rod i, lever t and camwheel t, the latter being set on shaft to. (See Fig. III.)

Whenever the embroidering is done with continuous thread, using the described eyepointed needles 2?, the-carriageb which bears the latter, receives a special motion, being brought against the fabric and away from it by rod m, rocking arms m and m", movedby cam-wheel m Rod m, being fixedtothecarriage by a hook resting on pin m, can be loos ened from the carriage very easily,.thus stop.- pin g thelatter whenever necessary. Carriage b, which is not working when; the eye-pointed needles-and the shuttles are operated, is'held at rest by rod m havinga fulcrum at one end and a hook at the other.

Another device used when the continuous threadis at work is the bar 2,- which ispressed against the fabric for tightening the latter by the frame f, supporting the fabric, can be moved by the pantograph,,as is done usually in embroidering-machines.

As shown specially in Figs. IV and V, a

rail, 8, is provided, corresponding to bar 9, but situated on the opposite side of the fabric.

Rail 3 supports a flat rail, 8, which has suitable grooves to receive the shuttles s 8 and a metallic plate, 8', acting as shuttle-driver. The latter is connected by a link, 8", and arm 5 to a vertical rod or shaft, 8. As will be seen on Fig. III, shaft 3 receives an oscillating motion by the'arm s, which is provided with a cam corresponding to the groove of camwheel a This cam-wheel is fixed on main shaft a, and revolves with the latter. The shaft 8 being connected, as described, with the shuttle-driver s, the shuttles willmake a suitable to-and-fro motion at each revolution of the" main shaft u.

For carrying out the purpose of my invention, the rail 3, which supports theshuttles, cannot be fixed, directly to the frame of the machine, but must be movable, in order that it may be brought out of way when the embroidering is tobe done no longer by the shut tles and eye-pointed needles, but with the double-pointed needles. For the objectthus stated, rail 8 is made fast to-three rods, 1),- one" near each end of the rail and one at, its center; Theserods are made toslide in corresponding boxes, 1), which are fast on the frameofthe machine, and may be either square-or cylindrical, being in the latter case provided with a groove or other suitable device for preventp- The rods p are hollow and'provid'ed with a screw-fillet fitting screws p, as shown-inFig. IV. The screws are made to revolve by pinions p and p, shaft 12 and crank 10. be easily understood that by turning the crankhandle forward or backward the screwswilh lift or bring down the rail 8.

It will I prefer to use the describedmeans for mov ing rail 8 up and down; butit shall be under stood that I might apply other known devices which may be suitable for the same purpose: Having thus described the several parts of my improved embroidering-machine, I shall resumebriefly how the embroideringis done.' For embroidering with a continuous tliread by means of shuttles and eye pointed needles, 1

rails, with the shuttles, rail 9, with the eyepointed-needles i, and the bar 2, are broughtin the suitable position toward thefabric and set in motion by the intermediate mechanism unfastening spring 2. Rod m is released from carriage L, and rod m from carriage 6. Both carriages, supporting the bars 0 c" a a, with pinchers P P, are set in motion by endless belts r and other mechanisms usual in ordinary hand embroidering-machines. I may thus alternatively make on the same fabrics difi'erent kinds of embroidering, and by adding the usual devices for perforating the fabric and festooning I may add in an embroidery composed mainly of step-stitches all varieties of designs, which can only be produced on a hand embroidering-machine.

For increasing the quantity of work to be done with the embroidering-machine on using the continuous thread, I may apply several rows of eye-pointed needles with corresponding shuttles, as is shown, for instance, on Fig. 11, where t" represents a row of needles similar to needles 2', with corresponding accessory devices.

I am aware that embroidering machines have heretofore been provided with movable carriages carrying a series of needles, the whole working in conjunction with shuttles operated by cams, whereby the shuttles are given a to-and-fro motion. I therefore, in view of these facts, specifically claim the invention herein shown and pointed out in the claim.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim, and wish to secure by Letters Patent, is-

In an embroidering-machine, the combination of the carriage b", rods m m m, pin m", cam-wheel m rotary shaft u, bars 0 0, arm B, eccentric rods (1, frame f, rollers e e, bar g, arm pin 9, bracket 9 eye-pointed needles 2' 71', bar 2, arm 2, fulcrum 2 spring 2, collar 2, bobbin h, flat spring is, rocking arm Z, rod Z, lever Z cam-wheel Z rod t and t, arms t rods t, and lever t cam-wheel t", angle-rail 8, flat rail .9, shuttles s metallic plate 8, link 8, arm 8 vertical rod 8, arms 8 cam-wheel 3, main driving-shaft u, rods p, boxes 10, screw 1), pinions p p, shaft 19 and crank 12, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I hereunto sign my name, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 12th day of June, 1884.

JOHN JACOB EBNETER.

Witnesses:

EMIL BLUM, Monrrz VEITH. 

